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Governor & Blades
Installation |
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After the stub tower is brought to the built
up tower, the joining of sections is not always easy. Here, Jim Coenen has a
come-along attached to the last section of the tower to the stub tower-- to entice the
stub tower to move back-wards--so the holes can line up. |
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The stub tower is added to the end of the last
section of the tower itself. There is a lot of lumber underneath the stub tower that
raises it to meet the hole pattern of the splice plate that joins the last leg of the
tower. |
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The whole tower, along with the stub tower, is being
lifted up so to slide couple 55 gallon drums under. Working at chest high level is
better then at the 18" above ground level.
In the foreground is the gear box. The governor will be added to gear box. |
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Here is a picture of the governor. The blades slide
onto those spars and are attached at the mounting bracket Notice too, the ball joints
and the rubber boots: the blades are allowed to pitch out and away from the plane--because
of this governor. |
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When the governor is added to the gear head the disc
brakes have to be applied; so, the input shaft on the gear box does not turn.
A come-along, is used to secure the brake calipre to the disc. (Instead
of the mechanical winch at the base of the tower at this time.) |
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The 20 kw has a hub nut that has to be secured to the
governor shaft at 600 ft. lbs. This torque setting is important! You do not
want the whole rotor coming off the gear head. |
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The governor is mounted to the gear box. The blades
are mounted to the governor and are attached to the butt plate. The ball joints are
shown and grease has been applied to the zirc fittings. |
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Here is a picture side of the rotor. The tail vane
is already secured at the rear of the gear head. To install the governor, the
gear head is right side up.
Notice the hardware mounted on the blades, the butt flange, and ball joints.
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Here is a picture of the hub nut that needs to be torqed to 600 ft. lbs.
The springs have been added to the assembly of the rotor. Notice the sag
of the springs. The springs have to be tightened in a slow approach. This
means that an adjustment of 1/2" of spring tension on one group nees to have a
1/2" spring tension on the other two blades. |
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When the final spring adjustment has been made on the three sets of
springs, the plate which the springs attach to will be centered on the hub nut. |
The spring tension is provided by the blade manufacturer. The serial numbers printed
on the blades are special. They are made with a certain weight and design feature.
The spring tension provided by the bladed manufacturer is specific to this set of
blades.
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The adjustment setting for this set of springs is 3 7/8"--from the
inside flange to the top of the loop of this extension spring. Since this
photograph was taken over the back of the fellow holding the tape measure, the perspective
of the length is obscured just a bit.
This picture shows one blade measurement. The same measurement must be made on
the other spring of this distance. This same measurement must be applied to each of
the springs on the other blades as well.
Notice the long eye-bolt, the washers and nuts on the end of the rod. There
are two nuts. The outside nut ensures the inside nut does not venture outward.
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